Air-Cooled Porsche 911 Carrera G-Body

The 3.2 Carrera ‘G-Body’ 911 represents the pinnacle of the original 911 design, combining the classic Porsche 911 DNA with modern fuel injection and the latest technology. The 3.2 Ca rera is also the last version of the well-known and well-loved ‘G-Body’ series, which debuted in 1974 and introduced what many will consider the most classic and most common 911 look. 

Still, this is a case of evolution versus revolution, as the 3.2 Carrera maintained the classic shape, the stand-up windshield, non-aero bumpers, and most importantly, torsion bar suspension, no ABS, and manual, non-power-assisted steering. This gives it the ‘pure’ driving experience that many say was lost with the subsequent 911, the 964, which added coil spring suspension and power steering, among other changes. 

The 3.2 Carrera is also significant in that in 1987, mid-way through production, Porsche introduced the manual transmission that would take Porsche and air-cooled 911s into the 90s with the G50. The G50 transmission was designed by Getrag and replaced the 915 gearbox that had served the 911 since 1972. This gave the 3.2 Carrera a significantly more modern feel, and helps to make the 87-89 model year variations the most desirable of the 3.2 Carreras that were sold in the USA. 

The engine itself, as you can guess, is a 3.2-liter version of the ‘classic’ air-cooled 911 engine, with updates in fuel injection and other mechanical components in order to increase power, torque, and efficiency. The increased displacement from the outgoing 3.0 liter 911 SC is thanks to an increase in engine stroke, and along with the new Bosch Motronic 2 DME engine management system and Bosch’s new LE-Jetronic fuel injection,  horsepower is up to 207hp and 192 lb-ft of torque on the 915-equipped examples from 1984-1986. With the introduction of the G50 transmission, power also increased just a touch more, thanks to a remapped engine ECU, to 217hp and 195 lb-ft of torque. 

Power may be nothing to write home about compared to just about any modern commuter car or minivan, but at the time, thanks to lightweight and fairly short gearing, this was enough to keep the 911 at the sharper end of naturally aspirated performance cars in its day. It is said the run to 60mph took somewhere in the low 6-second range, although some magazine testing showed times deep into the 5-second range. That said, if you’re trying to win the stop-light grand prix or go for quarter-mile times, this is not the car for you. The 3.2 Ca rera is all about the classic 911 driving experience, something that is special and rewarding in its own way and is virtually impossible to replicate today. This is one of many reasons that the 3.2 Carrera, and indeed any classic torsion bar 911, remains at the top of many enthusiasts’ wish list. 

The 3.2 Carrera was sold in various body styles, including the classic coupe, Targa, and cabriolet versions, plus the unique Speedster that debuted in 1989. Significant and unique to the 3.2, the M491 “Supersport” Turbo-look package was introduced and sold as a substitute for the years that the 911 Turbo wasn’t available in the USA. It fitted standard Carrera with the European 930’s body, suspension, and brakes. It was available in Coupe, Cabriolet, and Targa trims.  

During the production run, various minor updates and changes were made to the 911. For 1985, the steering wheel remained leather-wrapped but moved to a four-spoke design. The radio antenna moved into the windshield channel, an updated Boge shock replaced their old design, and Porsche added an oil cooler behind the passenger’s side headlight. Starting in ‘86, a third brake light was required and added to the Carrera via a periscope-style light mounted externally above the tail. The following year, the brake light moved into the cabin, behind the rear window, and a power convertible top became standard. 

Air-Cooled Porsche 911 3.2 Fluids

Engine	Engine Oil Type 20W-50 Engine Oil Capacity 10 Liters Service Fill | 13 Liters Dry Fill Porsche Engine Oil Change Kit (20W-50) - Liqui Moly LM22072KT3 SKU: KIT-LM22072KT3 View Product QTY $84.15+
Manual Transmission (Without Limited Slip Differential)	Manual Transmission Fluid Type API GL5 75w90 Manual Transmission Fluid Capacity 3 Liters 75W90 Fully Synthetic Hypoid Gear Oil (1 Liter) - Liqui Moly LM22090 SKU: MOL-LM22090 View Product QTY $18.09+
Manual Transmission (With Limited Slip Differential)	Manual Transmission Fluid Type API GL5 75w90 Manual Transmission Fluid Capacity 3 Liters Gear 300 LS 75W90 Gear Oil (1 Liter) - Motul 105778 SKU: MTL-105778 View Product QTY $25.59+
Brake	Brake Fluid Type DOT 4 Brake Fluid Capacity .2 Liters DOT 4 Brake Fluid (500ml) - Liqui Moly LM20154 SKU: MOL-LM20154 View Product QTY $6.79+

Front Control Arm Bushing Wear

The 3.2 Carrera shares the same basic front suspension components and design as all the previous generations of classic torsion bar 911s. This means that the components are both simple and effective, and there are not too many places where significant problems can develop. The most common problems that you will encounter are simply down to age and normal wear and tear of certain components, like the control arm bushings and the lower ball joints. 

The standard control arm bushings on the 3.2 Carrera are a typical rubber material, which will harden, crack, and develop play over time. Additionally, it can start to lose ‘memory’ when the rubber begins to no longer return to its original shape or state, allowing for play and movement. If your control arm bushings are bad, you may notice a vague or loose feeling in the front of the car, especially when loaded into a turn. 

A visual inspection may show cracking or obvious signs of dry rot or age. Sometimes, the bushing must be loaded to show these issues, so a well-placed pry bar may allow for earlier identification of a bad, or nearly bad, bushing. In the most extreme cases, you may start to notice extreme changes in alignment or direction over bumps or develop noise or knocks in certain conditions. 

The easiest way to replace your front control arm bushings on your 911 3.2 Carrera is to replace the arms with new arms that have pre-installed bushings. You may also choose to just replace the bushings with either OE-equivlent versions or upgraded polyurethane bushings from a company like Powerflex. Polyurethane bushings are going to be of a higher durometer (firmness) than the stock bushings, providing sharper handling and response. Powerflex offers a Heritage Line that is a near-match for the standard bushing color and is perfect for getting an OE look with improved performance. Spherical bearings, a solid metal replacement for the OE rubber, will offer the sharpest handling but with a penalty of increased noise and harshness and a much shorter service life than rubber or polyurethane. 

Control arm bushings should always be replaced as a left and right set, and the car should be aligned afterward. 

Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Wear

Much like the front control arm bushings, the rear trailing arm bushings on the 3.2 Carrera 911 are a crucial, if simple, component of the performance and handling of the car. The classic 911 chassis uses a rear swing arm that relies on the trailing arm bushing to provide medial and lateral support to the arm and plays a significant role in the ride, handling, and overall feel of the car. 

A Porsche 911 with a worn or bad rear trailing arm bushing is going to have a vague or unstable feeling, especially over bumps, uneven pavement, and when changing directions, throttle transitions, or loading the car into a corner. A worn or bad trailing arm bushing will allow for significant deflection under load and will typically show visual signs of cracking, aging, and degradation, especially when loaded. Harsher ride quality and noise from the rear suspension are common side effects of a bad rear trailing arm bushing. 

The most cost-effective method of replacing your rear control arm bushings is to by replacements, remove you rear control arms, and use a press and/or specialty tools, such as the kit available from Elephant Racing, to remove the old bushings and install the new ones. While this is not technically difficult, it’s not much fun and will take time to do correctly, especially considering the other components that are attached to or work with the 911 rear trailing arm, such as the CV axle, brakes/lines, and rear shock absorber. 

Replacement Porsche 911 rear trailing arm bushings are available in either factory rubber, upgraded polyurethane, or spherical bearings. Just like the front control arm bushings, each material will offer certain benefits and trade-offs depending on what you prefer and how you use your 911. It is typically best to match the rear trailing arm bushings and front control arm bushings in terms of material type and durometer for consistent ride and handling characteristics. 

Torsion Bars & Rear Torsion Bar Bushing Wear

One of the major differences between the Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera and all of the earlier models, such as the 911SC and the 964 that followed, is the use of torsion bar springs on the older cars and coil springs on the 964. Torsion bars are essentially hollow steel tubes with splines that fit to the body of the car and then to the suspension arm, and as the arm moves, the torsion bar will twist. This twisting is effectively the same as compressing a typical coil spring, with the spring rate increasing as the twist is increased (or when the spring is further compressed.) 

Torsion bars have a distinct packaging advantage over a standard coil spring and have their own unique feel and characteristics over the road. They are one of the big ‘secret sauce’ components of early air-cooled 911 handling and feel. It’s one of the primary reasons why people love older 911s.

Generally, torsion bars are a normal wear item in the sense that over time, they will fatigue and lose rate. If your 911 has very high mileage, and you are unsure if the torsion bars have been replaced, doing so, along with other needed suspension services, is a good way to make sure everything is absolutely 100%. A worn or fatigued torsion bar is going to have a reduced rate, uneven ride height, and response over a fresh one. One thing you can be sure of, however, is that the rear torsion bar bushings, if they have not been replaced, are going to need to be replaced. 

The rear torsion bar bushing assembly bolts to the rear trailing arm and houses the splined portion into which the rear torsion beam slots. Adjusting the orientation of the spines will adjust ride height and spring rate to some extent. Once the rear torsion beam bushings begin to fail, you will typically experience a loss in ride height as the splined portion of the bushing is allowed to “twist” in the rubber bushing itself. In extreme cases, the torsion bar itself may start to make contact with the body of the car, causing a squeaking noise. 

Replacing just the rear trailing arm bushings is possible, however, it is a thankless job and one of the more difficult ones to tackle because of the tolerances and way the bushings are assembled with the arm. It is far easier to replace the entire torsion bar arm assembly with bushings if it is available for your 911. Like other rubber bushings in the suspension of your 911, rear torsion bar bushings are available in original spec durometer, a more firm rubber durometer, and finally, the Powerflex Heritage series polyurethane, offering improved response and handling performance without adding extra service or maintenance of spherical bearings. 

Once replacing the rear torsion bar bushings, your 3.2 Carrera will need ride height reset and a proper four-wheel alignment performed. 

Ball Joint Wear

Like any other strut-based suspension design, the lower ball joint plays a crucial role in the 3.2 Carrera’s handling, ride, and performance. The lower ball joint on the classic air-cooled 911 is a unique design that uses a very large castle nut to secure it in place on the control arm. The front strut/spindle assembly attaches in a more traditional fashion, with a pinch bolt. 

Since the lower ball joint has such an important job of locating and connecting the control arm itself to the strut, when it is just slightly worn or loose, you may not notice it immediately. However, once there is significant play in the ball joint, you will notice a lack of steering response, looseness in the steering, and potential vibration at speed. With the vehicle raised, you will typically have noticeable play in the wheel/tire if you move it side to side by either the left/right sides of the tire or the upper/lower sides of the tire. 

Replacing the ball joint on a 3.2 Carrera will require two specialty tools, one to lock the ball joint in place and another to remove and then re-torque the castle nut. It’s recommended to use a new castle nut anytime you replace your 911 ball joint. 

Tie Rod Wear

The original steering tie rods on the 911 3.2 Carrera are one of the known weak links when it comes to delivering the best driving experience. Compared to a modern, more traditional solid tie-rod inner, the original design used on the 3.2 Carrera models is the same as those used on every 911 model previously produced. This is an older style with a secondary bushing and pivot point versus an inner ball joint. 

This design works just fine and was what the technology of the day back in the 1960s would allow, but the flex of the inner rubber bushing creates additional movement and play in the steering. Additionally, just like every other rubber bushing, this is going to harden, crack, deteriorate, and eventually allow excessive play in the steering. 

The as-supplied outer tie rod end is a more traditional type, with a sealed balljoint design. This can fail in the same way as all other ball joints, slowly wearing and loosening over time. Eventually, it can develop a large amount of play, leading to vibration in the steering over the road and a loose feeling in transitions and over bumps. Uneven tire wear is common with a bad tie rod. Just like a lower ball joint, with the vehicle raised, you will typically have noticeable play in the wheel/tire if you move it side to side by the left/right sides of the tire.

The vast majority of 3.2 Carrera owners will find it easier and more rewarding to install a 930 Turbo tie rod upgrade. This removes the ancient bushing-and-pivot design for a traditional solid metal inner ball joint, providing more direct steering feedback and a much longer life. Plus, lowering your 911 will allow you to install the bump-steer kit, which you will need to keep geometry in check at a lowered ride height. Lastly, the 930 Turbo tie rod upgrade is significantly less expensive, thanks to the availability of quality OE or aftermarket parts versus genuine Porsche parts.

Shock & Strut Failure

The shocks and struts on the 3.2 Carrera are as crucial as they are on any other Porsche or, indeed, any other sportscar. They are responsible for a large portion of the handling characteristics of the early 911s, and there were many options depending on what the car was equipped with from the factory. For example, a 911 could be delivered with Boge, Bilstein, or Koni shocks and struts, and each of those brands would require that you replace the front strut insert with a version that is designed to replace that brand of damper. There are some other options, such as a Sachs damper to fit a Boge housing, but for the most part, you must match like with like. 

Adding to this is that many 3.2 Carreras and older 911s will have already had their dampers replaced or upgraded at some point over the years. Upgrading to the “Turbo” Bilsteins, for example, will replace the standard Boge units. The factory Boge front struts are black or gray and have the most number of options when it comes to direct-fit inserts. There are options from Sachs, Koni, and Bilstein to fit the Boge struts. Bilstein struts are typically green in color but may be yellow and were standard on the 930 Turbo and an option on all other 911s. Lastly, the Koni struts were never a factory option on the 3.2 Carrera, but again you never know what may have been changed by a previous owner. Koni struts are reddish-orange and can only be used with a Koni-specific strut insert. Typically the fitment notes on a front strut insert will tell you which strut housing it should be used with. 

Thanks to modern production capacities and the availability of complete strut units from Bilstein and KW, there are options for those who are either unsure of their factory strut design or would like to upgrade to something different from what is currently on the car. Bilstein has a range of options, including OE spec, Sport, Clubsport, Rally, and RSR versions. 

Diagnosing a bad or failing shock or strut on a 3.2 Carrera 911 is the same as on any other vehicle. Signs of excessive moisture or leaking, combined with a loss of body control, excessive bouncing after bumps, a rougher ride, and unstable handling, are all signs of a bad or failing shock or strut. In extreme cases, uneven tire wear, such as cupping, can occur as the tire bounces off the ground and the damper is unable to control the rebound of the tire and the spring. Lastly, in the most severe cases, the front strut can make noise or begin to develop play. 

If you’re replacing your front struts, if you haven’t done so recently, you may also want to replace your front brakes and wheel bearings. It makes for a more expensive job, but since they are all assembled together if they’re less than brand new or nearly so, it can reduce the amount of work to do in the future. 

Sway Bar Bushing Wear

The sway bars, often also known as anti-roll bars, are an integral component of the handling of a 3.2 Carrera. They work in conjunction with the shocks, struts, and torsion bars to keep the car level and planted through the turns but ride smoothly over normal roads. They are effectively an additional spring that helps to manipulate weight transfer side to side as it moves through a corner. 

Rubber bushings are used to mount the sway bar in multiple locations, and just as with any other rubber bushing on the 3.2 Carrera, these will wear over time through use, exposure to the elements, and age. The sway bar bushings will crack and begin to allow for additional movement, reducing the effectiveness and performance of the sway bar. In the most extreme cases you will start to hear noise over bumps and uneven road surfaces. 

Standard rubber replacements will provide an original driving experience, while upgraded harder durometer bushings from Powerflex will provide a sharper, improved handling response without changing to a larger, stiffer sway bar. Powerflex produces the sway bar bushings in the same Heritage Line materials, too, lending an OE look to a better-performing bushing.

Front Wheel Bearing Failure

The front wheel bearings on the 3.2 Carrera are of the same design as all previous torsion-bar, classic 911 models. The front strut housing has the bearing spindle permanently attached, and the bearings are then assembled and torqued by a very specific process, along with the brake disc rotor and wheel hub. This all-in-one modular design is very different from a modern, fully self-contained bearing. The 3.2 Carrera uses needle bearings, which are assembled with the outer bearing races and main bearings as separate units, and the exact bearing preload to the spindle is set by hand. 

Because of the way they are assembled, if your Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera has a bad or failing wheel bearing and the front brake discs have a good number of miles, it may be worth replacing everything at once rather than installing new bearings with old brake discs. Signs of a bad or failing wheel bearing on a 3.2 Carrera will include a low-frequency hum or vibration, especially when the bad wheel bearing has additional load, such as when turning right or left. 

Because setting bearing preload on the front wheels of a Porsche 911 is manual, you should always check play and preload before assuming you have a bad wheel bearing. Depending on the kind of use your 911 sees, we recommend checking the front wheel bearing preload every 25,000 miles. 

In the most extreme cases, when the front wheel bearing is extremely worn or out of adjustment, it can overheat and damage the spindle itself. This is usually because the inner bearing race becomes too tight to the spindle, requiring more force to remove it and sometimes damaging the spindle in the process. If this happens, you will need to replace your strut with the equivalent version, whether original or aftermarket. 

DME (Engine Control Unit ) Relay Failure

The DME relay is one of the most common electric failures on the 3.2 Carrera, and it’s perhaps the most common failure that can leave you stranded. The DME relay is located under the driver’s seat and is responsible for providing power to the Porsche’s engine control unit. These fail with enough regularity that most owners keep a spare DME relay in the car at all times, whether for their own car or other 911 owners, they may encounter at events and in the wild. We certainly recommend having a spare in the car if you have a 3.2 Carrera. 

If you have stock seats in the car, this is fairly easy to replace. If you have aftermarket or racing seats, it could be more difficult to access. 

Turn Signal Stalk/High Beam Switch (Combination Switch) Failure

The turn signal stalk and high beam combination switch is responsible for a significant number of lighting functions on the 3.2 Carrera. The earlier 911 models, such as the 3.2 Carrera, do not have headlight relays, and all lighting voltage travels through this switch and the headlight switch. Because of this, they tend to develop problems regularly.

There are also multiple contact points and over time, these tend to develop resistance, and gaps between contacts, leading to issues in how the lights work on your 911. It’s also tied into the dimmer switch of the interior dashboard lights. Because of this, when they fail and it can create a range of issues. This is common on all older 911s, but this specific combination switch will work on all 911s from 1975 to 1989.

The most common Porsche 911 high beam switch failure is that the car will be stuck with the high beams on and off, it may switch randomly between high and low beams, or it may be very difficult to get the car to switch back and forth between low and high beams. You may also experience headlights turning on or off when using the turn signals. Lastly, inconsistent or non-functional dimmer function for the interior gauge lights can be a problem. Removing the switch, cleaning contacts, and bending the tabs so they make more positive contact with the stalk are some of the ways to resolve this issue, but replacing the switch is the best way to resolve this issue. If the headlight switch is also of unknown age, it’s recommended to replace that at the same time, as it is also a common failure point over time with these early 911s.

Pedal Box Bushings & Rebuild

The 3.2 Carrera 911, like all classic 911s before it, has a set of unique floor-mounted pedals that are as much a part of the driving experience as the air-cooled engine, the suspension design, and the size and shape of the car. This pedal box has a number of arms, levers, and bushings, and depending on the age, mileage, and condition of these components, there are a number of issues that can pop up. 

This will revolve primarily around the plastic bushings used by the factory degrading, cracking, and breaking apart over time. This can cause a range of problems, varying in terms of significance depending on what fails and how long the car is driven in that state. 

The throttle pedal bushing, for example, can result in major problems if it fails and is left unnoticed and unrepaired. The car will drive normally for the most part, but at full throttle, it is possible for the pedal to become stuck in that position. As you can imagine, depending on the situation and how quickly you are able to shut the car off and come to a stop, this could result in engine damage or even an accident. 

Other more typical problems that can occur are that once the bushing is gone, the pedal, arm, or component will ride directly on the clevis pin and can become damaged or even wear through completely. Additionally, the arms can crack in various places, so if you are in a rush, having new components on hand will be the fastest way to avoid having your 911 down for the count while waiting for parts to arrive.  

Rebuilding the pedal box takes a number of smaller steps but is not technically difficult and is an important part of keeping the 3.2 Carrera performing well. The OE bushings are all made from plastic, but upgraded bronze versions are also available and will generally last longer. However, they will still need to be replaced eventually as they are not a lifetime part. 

Ignition Switch Failure

The ignition switch on the 3.2 Carrera 911 is a two-piece unit consisting of a mechanical half, where the key is inserted, and an electrical half, which is what actually sends voltage to the ignition system, accessories, and starter motor. Both halves can fail over time. The mechanical side is caused by general wear and tear, and the electrical side is the same; there is degradation in the electrical contacts and components. 

When the mechanical side begins to fail, you may experience a number of symptoms. Most commonly, the key may feel like it begins to ‘stick’ or is difficult to go into the start position. This is from the starter lockout pin, which can start to interfere when it is not supposed to do so. It’s designed to keep the driver from starting an engine that is already running, but more often, when it fails, it results in frustration of not being able to start the car. If your faults are with the key not turning far enough to start the car, it is likely the mechanical portion.

If your key seems to be functioning as intended, turns, and seems to engage the starter function (the ‘sprung’ portion of the key turn), but the car does not start, stay running, or randomly loses ignition power, it could be from a failed electrical portion. 

Rotted Heat Exchangers Or No Heat

If you’re 3.2 Carrera doesn’t have heat, chances are your factory heat exchangers may have rusted away to the point that they’re no longer doing their job. On any normal vehicle, cooled by engine coolant, it’s a fairly simple and efficient process to take the heat that has been generated by the engine, capture it in the coolant, and then send it through another heat exchanger called a heater core to heat the passenger cabin. It's not quite as simple for air-cooled cars such as the 911. 

On air-cooled vehicles, like the 3.2 Carrera, there are metal boxes called heat exchangers that are built around the exhaust headers on the bottom side of the engine, as this is the hottest portion of the exhaust to try and pull heat from. These have ducts attached, and this heated air is sent forward to the passenger compartment. This can work fairly well, provided that the heat exchangers are in good shape. However, time, rust, physical damage from road debris, and any other number of issues can create holes and problems. 

Likewise, related components that help to direct this heated air to keep the passengers warm can fail, and any hole that allows heated air out or cold air in will mean uncomfortable passengers. The blower motor lives in the engine compartment, along with the heater hoses, so it lives a relatively hard life, and failures of the motor or holes in the heater hose will also reduce climate control performance. 

Replacing your old, worn-out exhaust headers and heat exchangers with new units from Dansk will not only provide improved performance but also help restore that missing heat for the cooler fall and winter months. Plus, since they are made from stainless steel, you’ll never have to worry about the heat exchangers again.

Slotted Brake Discs

The factory brakes on the 3.2 Carrera do a fairly reasonable job of stopping the car during normal, spirited driving. The standard brake discs are a full-face, non-drilled type brake disc rotor, versus the more sporty drilled or slotted discs you may see on other performance cars. While most of the braking performance of any vehicle is down to the sum of its parts versus any specific individual component, upgrading to slotted brake discs can aid in improving the braking performance of your 3.2 Carrera. 

Slotted brake discs provide two primary benefits in a braking system. First, the slots ‘bite’ into the pad, creating a better initial response than a plain rotor. Additionally, the slots can help to keep the pads clean and wearing more evenly than a plain or drilled rotor. Drilled brake rotors offer similar benefits to slotted in terms of a sporty look and improved initial bite but are best kept to the street. If you track your 3.2 Carrera, slotted discs are the way to go. 

Performance & Racing Brake Pads

Swapping to performance or racing brake pads for your Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera is the single most effective way to improve braking performance. Street compound brake pads will usually do just fine for most driving situations. However, if you push your 911 hard on the street, and certainly if you drive on track or autocross, going to a performance or racing brake pad is highly recommended. 

 As a rule, it is impossible to get a brake pad that does everything well. A low dust pad will not give the performance of a racing pad, and a racing pad will not give the low dust and low noise of a ceramic, organic, or street semi-metallic pad. There are some pads that do a fairly good job, however, and the Ferodo DS2500 is one of our favorites. It operates well at colder temperatures, meaning that the first time you go to use the brakes, it provides sure stopping power, not just after it’s been run hard for a few corners. Likewise, it’s relatively low dust for a performance pad, it’s relatively low noise, and it's pretty easy on rotors as well. 

If you want more pure racing performance, a set of RSL29 pads from Pagid Racing will yield the ultimate in-stopping power for your 3.2 Carrera. This will be at the price of noise and dust—they will squeak and squeal, and they will coat your wheels with dust, but they will continue to offer sure stopping power even in the most extreme conditions. 

Brake Fluid

Calipers, pads, and rotors may get the lion’s share of the credit for braking performance on the 3.2 Carrera, but it is important not to overlook another crucial component: brake fluid. Being an older vehicle, especially one that can tend to sit for weeks or even months at a time, it’s easy to think that the brake fluid, and any other fluid for that matter, isn’t being used much, so it may not need to be replaced regularly. Engine oil is usually the one that gets the nod to change in 5,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first. The reality is that brake fluid could be just as important if not more so, to flush as part of your normal 911 car care routine. 

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means that it pulls in and absorbs moisture from the air. The older that brake fluid is, the more likely it is to have some level of water contamination. This is the reason that brake fluid has a wet and a dry boiling point, and it’s also the reason it needs to be flushed regularly. Brake fluid that is highly contaminated with water will no longer be able to protect crucial braking components from corrosion and damage. This includes pistons, seals, the brake master cylinder, and the lines themselves. 

Your 3.2 Carrera’s brake fluid should be flushed every two years, regardless of mileage. If you drive the car aggressively or on track, maintenance bleeds, and more regular bleeds may be needed to keep the fluid fresh and in good shape. We recommend a regular DOT 4 brake fluid for the vast majority of owners. Something from LIQUI MOLY, ATE Type 200, or Motul. For those looking for maximum thermal capacity for track or aggressive road use, Castrol SRF, Motul RBF600, RBF660, or RBF700 is ideal.

Brake Lines

Your 3.2 Carrera’s factory rubber brake lines are going to be an area you will want to inspect and address accordingly. Any rubber line will be subject to some level of natural dry rotting and degradation over time. Within the braking system, where they have to deal with not only potential heat exposure but high internal pressure, they must be inspected and in good shape. The last thing you want is a brake failure. 

A simple visual inspection of the rubber, especially at bends or junctions, looking for cracks or splits, will be a good first step. Any signs of those issues indicate that your 3.2 Carrera brake lines will need to be replaced. If they’ve been updated or upgraded to a braided stainless steel line, and you are unsure of the age, or if they show obvious signs of heat, fraying, or discoloration, it may also be time to replace these. Since you can’t visually see the rubber line inside, it will be a guessing game regarding age or condition. 

Braided stainless steel lines are our usual go-to for recommendations, as they help to provide a more firm brake pedal feel and have an extra layer of protection, helping to prevent cuts or damage from road debris. Plain rubber lines will give the most “OE” look and will still provide sure stopping power and safety.

'930' Brake Upgrade

The Porsche 930, also known as the 911 Turbo, was the ultimate street-going regular-production G-body 911. With a minimum of 282hp on tap, it was a rocket ship capable of immense power with the right bit of tuning. To match the power output and ensure its owners were able to safely use it without trouble, Porsche fitted the 930 with the best calipers of any of its road-going models at the time. Anyone looking to improve the braking performance of their modified 911 can look to the 930 calipers as an upgrade, but not without some hurdles. 

The 930 calipers were manufactured by Brembo and were a direct predecessor to the units used on the venerable 917 and 911 3.0 RSR. They’re aluminum, with four pistons (double that of the Carrera) and fins to aid with cooling. However, their real benefit comes from the larger rotor they require. At 304x32mm up front, the rotor is 22mm larger in diameter and 8mm wider than that of the 3.2 Carrera. In the rear, the 309x28mm 930 rotor is 19mm larger in diameter and 4mm larger in thickness. The larger rotor is significantly better at dissipating heat, making it the best OE option that’ll fit under 15” Fuchs.

Swapping over the front brakes is simple for any ‘77-89 911 variant and any other preceding 911 using struts with the 3.5” caliper spacing. The caliper will bolt onto the existing strut and work with the ‘78-’80 930 floating rotors. Halfway through 1980, Porsche fitted the 930 with a bespoke front hub and changed the rotor offset and construction to match. Using the late rotor on a 3.2 Carrera will not work. Beyond that, get yourself the correct D345-size pad, and you’ll be good to go. 

The rear brakes are much more of a challenge. The location and caliper spacing of the 930 calipers differ from the 3.2 Carrera, so some modifications need to be made. Luckily, this swap is nothing new, so there are established companies that can machine and modify the calipers to fit the Carrera trailing arms. 930 trailing arms can also be swapped into a Carrera, but that’s quite a bit more work unless the car is already well apart.

Boxster Caliper Retrofit

While it won’t allow for a larger rotor, there are a good many owners out there who’ve chosen to fit 986 Boxster calipers to their 3.2 Carrera models. The Boxster uses a much larger four-piston monoblock caliper that’s said to deliver a much more consistent and modular feel over the standard 3.2 Carrera calipers. The increased size also utilizes a larger pad, so temperatures are likely to remain cooler in identical braking situations to the standard caliper. 

The challenge is that the caliper mounting points are vastly different between the Boxster and Carrera calipers, so an adapter kit is required for the front and rear. They can be had from a few different places, so shop around if this conversion sounds right for you. Once you have that, we have the pads and rotors that’ll complete the conversion and deliver the best braking performance your 3.2 Carrera has ever had. 

Performance Shocks And Struts

If you are looking for performance suspension for your 3.2 Carrera, you are in luck, as there is a nearly infinite number of options available. As one of the most-raced and rallied platforms of all time, the classic 911 has something available for every flavor and every option – from standard ride height to lowered for track use, raised to rally, or height adjustable. 

First, one of the most versatile and street-friendly options is the KW Variant 3 Damper kit. This replaces the factory shocks and struts with KW’s 2-way adjustable V3 dampers. This allows for rebound and compression changes and is available in standard, 19mm raised, and lowered spindle versions for standard, lowered, or raised ride heights. If you’re especially picky about ride quality, handling, or handling balance, the KW V3 kit could be the right one for you. 

Bilstein also has a ton of options for the 3.2 Carrera. You can choose from Street Performance, Rally, Clubsport, or RSR spec. Each has its own advantages depending on how you want to use your 911. The majority are designed to work with the factory torsion bar springs, but the RSR version will require some additional work, plus coil-over springs. These are threaded for ride height and corner balance adjustment as well. Bilstein struts are fixed rate for damping and should be paired with rear shocks that match the valving of the font struts. 

A word about lowering any classic 911, the 3.2 Carrera included. Whether you re-clock the front torsion bars or take advantage of a 19mm drop-spindle kit, you will absolutely have to run a bump steer correction kit. This will reposition the front tie-rods so that there are no extreme toe changes as the car turns, corners, and goes over changes in the road surface.

Upgraded Anti-Roll Bars

If it’s time to replace the sway bar bushings on your 3.2 Carrera, instead of just replacing bushings, you can upgrade to an aftermarket performance sway bar set, such as one from Eibach. Going to a larger sway bar increases the stiffness of the bar and, therefore, affects how much body roll the car will have in the corners. Typically, it's best to upgrade front and rear sway bars as a matched set in order to maintain a good balance of handling. Changing just the front or rear bar is possible, but it can significantly alter how the car handles in the turns in terms of oversteer or understeer, so you should be very familiar with what the difference will be in handling balance if you go down that route.